Disappointment

After a great late night meal at the Breslin last summer during a short trip to NY, I was really looking forward to eating at the John Dory oyster bar that was opened by the same folks in a spot just around the block.

So during the trip to NY earlier this month, we went to John Dory on the first night we were there, after a couple of beers and the lamb ribs at DBDG kitchen and bar. The counter seating along the window was really not comfortable at all for eating, but it is okay, it is supposed to be a bar, and who cares if the food is amazing.

It wasn't, not by a long stretch. The crudo (fluke I think) was room temp for some reason and the dish was very muted other than salt. Roasted peanuts with garlic was way way too salty. Morel and escargot on toast tasted only of cream and salt, none of the earthy mushroom or snail at all (there were there physically, not culinarilly). Squid stuffed with chorizo and paella like rice was nice, but the smoked tomato under them just take over your taste bud again with salt once you got any of it on the squid. I like salt, but not like this.

The service was horrendous, we were served three dishes and no one gave us napkins or silverware and no one noticed, not the food runner or our server. (Fortunately we were sitting near a POS terminal, so I was able to grab someone's attention) wine ordered was not delivered until we were pretty much done with the food (done, not in a good way).

The whole experience was almost the complete opposite from what we got at the Breslin less than one year ago. Best part about the place was the globe aquarium above the bar. Now I kind of understand why the original John Dory did not last long. Although this new incarnation might just stick around for a while because of its casual vibe, location and April Bloomfield's now pretty good rep., but not for where it really counts for me.

Soba in NYC

Outside Japan, I think soba noodles takes a back seat to the now very fashionable and found everywhere ramen. But when done well, soba is equally delicious and perhaps more nutritious. Soba is typically served either cold with a soy based dipping sauce or hot in broth, with a variety of toppings. On my most recent trip to Japan last summer, I had pricy hand made soba noodle in a serene restaurant but also a dirt cheap (for Japan) bowl in soup standing up on a busy street in Kyoto, both wonderful in their own ways.

a tiny three men kitchen

We got something that was a little different when we were in NY last week. A tiny place in the lower east side called Cocoron. There was a decent writeup in the NY Times about it not long ago so I am not going to go into details here other than that everything was done with care, cooked and seasoned perfectly (don't sleep on the few small side dishes like the homemade tofu). And the cold noodle you dipped in hot broth/sauce bobbling on the sterno was a very unique take on noodles of any kind. (as for finishing your bowl with noodle cooking water, it is not uncommon in homes or other noodle places in Asia, I do it all the time after I eat noodles not in broth.)